Wiring - Wing Root Connectors / FlyLeds Connector / Engine - Essential Bus Panel / Flap Motor Wiring

Wing Root Connectors

I finally got around to drilling the locations for the wing root connectors. Each wing root has 2 CPC connectors - 1 x Series 1 connector used for the higher power items (the pins on a Series 1 CPC are rated at 13 amps), and 1 x Series 2 connector for the lower powered items / data (these use standard DSub pins rated at 5 amps). 

I chose reverse sex connectors on the fuselage side - these have sockets instead of pins. The convention here is that the 'always live' side of the connector should have sockets instead of pins, just in case something shorts the pins when the power is on. It is probably not a big deal, but it wasn't hard to buy the right connector. I also chose connectors which had threaded inserts in the connector body, so they can be installed from the back with screws on the front (by one person) (these take 4-40 screws). 

Series 2 connector for DSub Sockets

Series 1 connector for CPC sockets

I had previously made up a drilling template for these CPC connectors when i drilled my baggage floors for the smoke system connector - so this was used to plan out the hole locations and drill the holes. 

In addition, the right hand side got 2 bulkhead connectors for the AOA and Pitot lines, and the left hand side got a BNC Bulkhead connector to pass through the Coax from the VOR/ILS Antenna in the wingtip. 

The existing systems hole was enlarged, and a second one was added.

What could go wrong?

Left side - CPC Series 1 (top) and Series 2 (bottom), and BNC Coax bulkhead connector.

Right Side - same 2 CPC connectors, with the 2 AOA / Pitot bulkhead connectors.

This is the overall location of these connectors.

FlyLeds Connector

Since the wing root connectors were installed, i could run the final wires for the FlyLeds position lights from the FlyLeds controller board under the seat, to te left and right wing root connectors. 

The FlyLeds position lights use 3 core 20 AWG wire, but carry a ground back through the shield. Hence the black wire terminated to the shield with the solder splice.

These are the DSub pins at the FlyLeds board end

These are the CPC Series 1 Sockets - crimped with a standard Molex style crimper - for the wing root connector end.

It feels good to close up a connector - even a simple one like this.

Engine / Essential Bus Panel

I am installing the angled power module optional kit OP59 from Van's which comes with a thin cover to screw over the top to hold your circuit breakers. 

I decided to roll my own - i designed it in OnShape. It's larger than the original panel, and includes space for 10 x traditional circuit breakers (the Essential Bus), as well as the 20 position Bussman Fuse Block (Engine Bus). It also includes mounting positions for the 2 x Engine Bus isolation Diodes. 

I took the 3D file, and imported it into InkScape, cleaned it all up, then exported it as a .DXF file to send to the laser cutter in China. Having it in InkScape meant i could make up all the labelling for the panel at the same time. 

The red lines are the laser cutter lines, while the black is what will become my labelling.

The panel came back from the laser cutter and i can happily report that everything slotted straight in! 

Note - in the images below, the panel does not include the mount locations for the Diodes. This was V1 of the design - a later design included these. 

I was then able to measure up the spacing, and make up the copper bus bars which will form the Essential Bus. 

Test fitting some scrap to confirm my spacing.

Each row is tied with a tie-bar, which will be the power input.

This connector will take the #10 feedline for the Essential Bus

I recieved V2 of the file back from the laser cutters - with a small modification to the power module cover panel, it all fit great.

This is a back view of the panel once installed. The fuse block is the Engine Bus - this will get 2 diode isolated feeds. The lower copper bus bars are the Essential Bus.

Flap Motor Wiring

I also had some red and black 20 AWG in stock, so made up the twisted pair for the flap motor and ran these between my expected location for the GAD27, and the flap motor. This uses a free-hanging CPC series 1 connector (9 position). 

To twist the wire pair, you clamp them at one end on the bench. The other end is placed in the drill. You put some pressure on, then spin the drill until it looks about right. Keep in mind when measuring, twising reduces the length quite a bit - you will feel the drill walking toward the bench as they twist. Once done, don't release the pulling pressure on the drill - the wires will turn into a rats nest. Give the whole thing 2-3 sharp tugs to set the wires then you can release the pressure. 

I was looking for a good location to place an ADEL clamp to hold the flap wires, and noticed a hole in the flap channel i had not seen before. 'That's a good place for an ADEL clamp' i thought. All i would have to do is relieve the flap motor cover around the mounting screw head.

Lo! and Behold! - Van's is awesome. The Flap Motor cover already has this relief built in. They have thought of everything.

The surgeon thingies really help when installing ADEL clamps.

Finally i gave the flaps 12V and they use about 700ma when running (with no aerodynamic load). I did put back-pressure on the actuator arms and this didn't seem to increase the load. The 20 AWG wire is good for 7.5 amps anyway. Plenty of headroom. 

So lots of little jobs done here and there on wiring. 

Moving onto the Engine Baffles next.