50-02: Heater Controls & Park Brake Handle location

Heater Controls

The Heater Controls were installed as per the manual, with a slight change to the cable routing, in order to avoid the swing down avionics shelf i had previously installed. 

Setting the 'cushion' distance on these was time consuming as it was my first go at it. I learnt that you should not tighten the jam nut on the end of the cable very tight, untul you have the length dialled in. It will bend the wire and make adjsuting it later more difficult. 

The cable is held on the outboard sides, at the subpanel, by an ADEL clamp, then bends down to the heater door. It is held off the brake line by some zip-ties to prevent chafing. 

The sheath was easy enough to cut with the dremel.

But if you take too long, it melts the inner nylon. This can be opened up with a drill.

The nut was installed onto the heater door. This was a PIA to install the cotter pin.

This is the cushion gap i ended up with.

The cable is held clear of the avionics shelves by an ADEL clamp on the subpanel frame.

Cable ties are used to prevent chafing with the brake line.

Here is an explanation of the cusion setup:

Park Brake Bracket / Control

I had previously installed a Matco park brake valve, and needed to work out the location for the control cable. 

When i was placing my order for the FWF parts, i ordered both the standard and the EXP-119 Engine Control brackets. I used the EXP-119 bracket and cut it up for use as a park brake bracket to be attached to the sub panel, on the left side outboard of the heater control. I bent it slightly past 90 degrees to match the angle of the sub panel, so the park brake control pulled out parrallel with the heater control. 

I chopped this up to make the bracket for the park brake control.

I made sure the mounting holes cleared the heater control cable for ease of maintenance later. It was put as far outboard as i could go, without impeding the air vent.

I bent the bracket past 90 degrees, to match the panel angle. This ensures the park brake control is parrellel with the heater control when used.

When cutting the cable to length, it is held in using a tiny ball bearing. Be careful you don't lose the ball when pulling the cable apart. The ball rides on a little ramp such that with the button released the ball jams into the sleeve - locking the control in whatever positio it is in. When you push the button, pressure on the ball is released and the control can be moved.

This is the little ramp which puts pressure on the ball to lock the control against the shaft.

With the button pressed, the balls drops down and the control can be moved.

With the button released, a spring pushes the button forward, pushing the ball up the ramp and jamming it into the sleeve, preventing the control from being moved.

This was before bending the bracket - the controls were not parrallel.

Just a mockup with printouts - but cool nontheless.

Of course, i had to climb in to 'test the ergonomics'. I was then able to take some measurements to ensure the part brake panel labelling is in the correct spot.