35-08 -> 35-20: Finally installing the forward fuselage parts to the airframe

Since i had already painted the interior of the cockpit, this meant that all following components which had to be installed into the fuselage, would either have to be pre-painted, or be installed then masked off and painted in situ. I decided it was *much* easier, to pre-paint all these components before they were installed into the airframe. 

This meant that i had to wait a long time, all through winter, before i had a warm enough day to do the painting. I moved onto the canopy assembly in the meantime, however once these parts were finally painted, it meant that i could install them. 

Chapter 35 ended up being done all over the shop - as it included a couple of optional kits, as well as some items done out of order. For instance, i installed the Forward Canopy Decks (35-11), before painting the cockpit interior, as i thought it would look a lot better this way (it did). I also completed OP63 - Remote Canopy Release, which meant alternating between the stock plans, and the OP63 plans a lot. I also elected to install the canopy release mechanism's, before the forward top skin was riveted on, as i want to leave this skin off until the very last minute, but needed the mechanism in place to fit the canopy.

Upper Forward Fuselage

The first component was the upper forward fuselage. Since i had already installed the canopy deck parts, this meant the upper forward fuselage assembly had to be carefully slid into place for riveting. My planning paid off, and this was easily done.

I was then able to rivet the assembly to the fuselage as per the manual. I needed to substitute some rivets where the sub panel riveted to the fuselage side frames - this was because i had already riveted on the canopy decks and could not get access to buck these rivets. I used LP4-3 in place instead. Otherwise, all rivets were as per the callouts. 

Sometimes, the hand squeezer is the only tool that will fit.

Since the canopy decks had already been installed, i was not able to used AD4 rivets for these 2 holes per side - instead I used LP4-3

It's impressive how far off the cupped set can go without out it making a smiley. 

Next up was to rivet on the lower wiring channel, and the wire support and engine control support brackets. For the wiring channel, it called out pull rivets for the 4 lower holes where the wiring channel riveted to the centre tunnel sides - i was able to use solid rivets here. 

These rivets were suppoed to be pull rivets, but i was able to use solids.

You can see why the wire support shelf is left off until the wiring channel is installed!

Next up was to rivet on the panel frame and the associated nutplates:

Canopy Hinge Assemblies / Canopy Release Assemblies

The canopy hinge assemblies are temporarliy installed on page 35-08, in order to assemble the canopy release mechanisms. They are then removed on page 35-19 when the central rivet zone of the centre skin is riveted on (for bucking access), and finally permanently installed on 35-20 when the forward top skin riveting is completed. 

Since i will be leaving the forward top skin off until later on in the build (after wiring), this means i will need the canopy hinge parts in position for fitting of the canopy - as such i decided to bolt the canopy hinge parts in place, as well as install the canopy release mechanism. 

It's important to read the plans and not forget any washers!

These parts were fabricated ready to install in a previous post but are finally being installed.

Here is a video showing how nice the mechanism is - note how it is reversed to the stock setup - the cable will pull the actuating arm forward, releasing the pins. 

Canopy Gas Struts

I also took the opportunity to install the canopy gas struts - these are the new -1 version, which have a stronger spring force than the originals. They have not been attached to the hinge arms as this stage, as i realised that the canopy cannot open fully in the shed without hitting a roof beam - i will need to do some shed modifications i think. 

The -1 are the stronger force gas struts.

These bolt through a hole, but use a modified bolt which was tapped with some more threads - a jam nut is tightened against the frame on one side, and a locknut on the other. It was a tight fit to get a spanner onto the jam nut. This creates a smooth motion 'axle' between the jam nut and the head of the bolt for the gas strut to rotate around.

These are only temporarily installed - hence the orange cable tie.

Next up is to rivet on the roll-bar assembly.