To get the aileron skins sorted, i laid them out on the table to work out which ones were left and right. They seemed basically identical and symmetrical, so i elected to put the side of each skin which had the little burr from the hole punching on the inside. This made deburring a lot quicker. I was very proud of myself for my planning ahead skills and how efficient i am at working. I'm sure it will be fine.
For future reference...
Moving on...
Next up was to clean, etch and prime the aileron skins (and nose skins). Before this, i put an edge break on the skins where they contacted the trailing edge, and also on the nose skin where it overlaps the main skins.
I hang the skin on some small nails on the fence to wash the etch solution off. |
Dimpling
Once the primer had dried, i was able to dimple the skins. I did not dimple the holes which align with the trailing edge wedge, because i still need to cleco the whole assembly together and drill the trailing edge wedge.
I realised that i forgot to mask off the inside sections of skin where the trailing edge wedge will be taped in place - so i removed the primer with acetone in those areas while it was still fresh.
Beginning Assembly
Once the dimpling was done, i was able to begin some assembly, by bolting the counterbalance and nose ribs assembly together. When i test fit this, i orientated the screws so the heads were on the rib side and the tails of the screws / nuts were inside the tube. I didn't like the look of this, so when i installed it for the final time, i put the screws the other way around (heads inside the tube). It was much easier this way to get the nuts done up (i used fresh nuts also). When i bolted it together, i clecod the ribs to the spar to help with alignment.
I would not do it this way again - as you will see later, this screws being this way, stopped me using a solid rivet for the forward most underside rivet.
Later i would realise that i could not get the squeezer into the forward most rivet of the lower flange due to the screw in the way. I had to use a MK-319BS rivet here instead. |
Riveting Stiffners
Next up, i back riveted all the stiffners and end ribs to the skins.
It took longer to place the rivets in the holes than it did to rivet them. |
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